Sunday, September 19, 2010

September 11ths


September 11th is a day of remembrance in Chile. Their September 11th involved planes and bombs, nationally recognized buildings, lives lost for ideologies, terror and confusion, and a turning point in the country's history, both internally and internationally. Their September 11th occurred 28 years before the attacks on the World Trade Centers in New York City, but is still a date that resonates with every Chilean.

On September 11, 1973 a military coup d'état overthrew the democratically elected, but socialist, President Salvador Allende. The heads of Chilean Air Force, Army, and Navy worked together to take the port city of Valparaíso and cut lines of communication with Santiago. President Allende remained in La Moneda, the presidential palace, where he learned the full extent of the resistance. He refused to resign and hand control of the country to the military, and made a final farewell speech broadcast on the radio, which he ended by saying "These are my last words, and I am certain that my sacrifice will not be in vain, I am certain that, at the very least, it will be a moral lesson that will punish felony, cowardice, and treason". La Moneda was bombed (marks of which are still visible on its North face) and the President died inside, officially labeled a "suicide".

The man who led the coup and subsequently ruled the military dictatorship, Army General Augusto Pinochet, remained in power until 1990. During this time some 1,500 political opponents were murdered or "disappeared" and tens of thousands were imprisoned and tortured- 40,000 in the first month alone. There are few families in Chile who were not affected by the brutal rule. Former President Michelle Bachelet was imprisoned and tortured in a detention center along with her mother in 1974. Her father was tortured and died in a detention center the year before.

President Allende had not had a smooth presidency. There were serious economic problems, a divided constituency, and foreign relations were challenging during Cold War times when socialism was viewed as enemy #1. In documents that were declassified on September 11, 1998, 25 years after the coup, it came to light the US President Nixon had ordered his CIA director, Richard Helmes, to foster a coup and force an economic crisis that would make Chileans want to overthrow their government. The United States also financially backed the military junta during their first few years of rule... the same years 40,000 political opponents were detained, tortured, or murdered.

This September 11th, my thoughts will not only be with the families who lost loved ones in the attacks on the World Trade Centers, or in the subsequent wars in Iraq and Afghanistan. My thoughts will also be with the Chilean families who suffered through 17 years of a brutal military dictatorship that my country, a country founded on the beliefs of equality and justice for all, helped to establish because a man came into power who believed in equality and justice for all- but he didn't believe in free market economics.

It is impossible to know what would have happened in Chile if the US did not have any interests in overthrowing Allende. But it is known that the US would rather support a military junta, at least for a few years, than a democratically elected socialist president. And as an American, I can't say that is something I am proud of.

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Around Santiago


Inspired by my recent travels to Argentina- and the beautiful weather! Spring is here!- I've spent more time wandering around Santiago, and have been really delighted with what I have found!
On Saturday I finally made it across the river to La Vega Central, the big vegetable market. Chile grows some amazing produce (the geography and climate are a lot like California, and like our Central Valley there is a huge agricultural region down the middle of Chile). Unfortunately, I think they export most of their good stuff, because the fruit and vegetables you can get at the supermarkets here are... less than inspiring. But like any city, the market is the place to really go.
Obviously a very local outing, a lot of people were doing their weekend shopping and the place was really in full swing. With every color imaginable and a plethora of produce, it was heaven for me. I'm particularly a sucker for nicely arranged food- green lettuce, zucchini, broccoli, brussel sprouts, GIANT celery, red peppers and strawberries, pink potatoes, purple beets, yellow lemons, all in their neat pyramids, piles, or baskets. Then there were bags of dried fruits, buckets of homemade pickles, and no vegetable market would be complete without a case of chicken feet right?
I bought basil, cilantro, clementines, strawberries, zucchini, broccoli, eggplant, peppers, and some palta (avocados) for less than US$8!! I love vegetables!!!

My excitement carried on as I walked back home through Plaza de Armas, the main square that the Spanish colonizers built when they first arrived and set up Santiago as a city (I've been going on great walking tours of the city through my Spanish language school here and have been learning so much about the history of Chile and Santiago!). But because Independence Day is coming up here September 18, and this year marks the 200 year anniversary of independence, the city is really starting to buzz with excitement. The patriotism is actually really nice to see- there are flags everywhere, including on many taxis and buses. Even our lobby is decked out with red, white, and blue crepe paper! But anyways... back to Plaza de Armas. They happened to be having a competition for the cueca, the national dance. Tina, Morgan and I first learned about cueca in watching Martín Rivas, our favorite telanovela that takes place in the 1800's... but that's another story! It was fun to see a lot of the traditional outfits, and people of all ages were dancing.
After dropping off my groceries and recovering from all the excitement, I really couldn't waste the rest of my day inside and decided to go get some ice cream. This was clearly the best decision because a) the gelato like ice cream here is fantastic (raspberry mint with dark chocolate peppercorn? YUM) and b) on my way over, I saw a man with his llama in the street!! He was going into a convenience store on the corner, and decided to tie his llama to a tree. In downtown Santiago. My favorite part is imagining where they came from and how they got here... it wouldn't be out of the question that they walked along the side of the highway. Near our field station there are a lot of small farms, and people still plow their land with horses, and have horse carts to transport their produce. It blows my mind.

Sometimes I get caught up in the mundane details of life- reading papers, staring at spreadsheets, sending emails- that I forget to look around. And when I do, I'm constantly amazed.

Saturday, September 4, 2010

Buenos Aires: La Vida Dulce

Flying over the Andes

My hostel! I stayed in the dome shaped room on the roof (photo from Felix)
Inside the dorm roomPub Crawl with friends from my language school: Rosa, Susanne, Mostafa, and me

Bakery near Plaza Italia. Yum.
Brownie covered with dulce de leche and marshmallow fluff, with a cappuccino. Double yum.
Cafe Hipopótamo in San Telmo
El Ateneo- theater turned bookstore was amazing
Catalina, the somewhat crazy and very fat dog of my host family

Buenos Aires: Recoleta, Puerto Madero, Microcenter

Cementerio de Recoleta
Nothing was done in moderation here
Puerto Madero y la Puenta de la Mujer (bridge that looks like a woman tango dancing, apparently)

Casa Rosada, the Presidential House
Cabildo, the old government houseCongreso

Buenos Aires: San Telmo y La Boca

Tea time at Las Violetas
Riding the old subway A line, built in 1913 and the oldest subway line in South America
Susanne at a little plaza in the neighborhood of San Telmo
Sunday antique markets in San Telmo
Glass bottles used to carbonate water... I may or may not have fallen in love with them and bought one
San Pedro Gonzalez Telmo Church
Group from our language school starting a mini tour of the neighborhood La Boca
Colorful houses and street vendors in La Boca

Friday, September 3, 2010

The thing about a tourist visa...

... is that you have to leave the country before 90 days. Trip to Argentina because I HAVE to? Yes, please.

I just spent the last 10 days in Buenos Aires, one of the coolest cities I have encountered. Big, beautiful, a little grungy, but full of nice people, great street markets, pretty parks, insane buses, wonderful cafes, dulce de leche, and fantastic night life. Just enough time to sample it all, but not quite enough to be satisfied (back in Santiago, I'm really lamenting my decisions to do some "cultural" things and not spend all my time, and money, shopping. Next time...)

I spent the first 5 days taking language courses and living with a local family. My castellano is progressing, though after listening to the Argentinian accent I now have more sh than ll (y) sounds, and am mixing "vos" instead of "" into my already rough conversations. At the school I met other travelers to explore the city with, and with my host family I got to live with a dog again (Catalina, the slightly crazy and incredibly fat perra), and eat tasty home-made Argentinian food. Good thing I am on hiatus from being a vegetarian!

I moved into a hostel downtown just in time for the weekend. Argentinians do not mess around with going out- bars aren't busy til midnight, no one shows up in clubs until 2 or 3, and an early night is getting home before sunrise. Hard to get used to, but, when in Rome...

One of my favorite things about the city were all the unique neighborhoods. There was Palermo which was beautiful and shady with bars and restaurants spilling out into the sidewalks, a great weekend market and so many shops it was overwhelming. Recoleta with an amazing old cemetery and the lavish houses. Puerto Madero on the "waterfront" of river lochs, full of uber expensive high rises, sidewalk cafes, and a little too much American-export culture: here's where you can find your TGI Friday's and Hooters. Yuck. Then there was San Telmo, the oldest part of the city and birthplace of the tango. Packed with antique shops, it was a little quiet during the day but the weekend market was one of my favorites. And the neighborhood La Boca, right on the dirty river where the old seedy port was, with a rambling street of houses painted bright but dirty colors, and everyone hustling for the tourist peso.

The city seems to go on forever. While it is filled with tourists, and rightly so, it seemed easier than most places to get lost in the shuffle of every day life, on a packed subte (subway) at rush hour, an old cafe at tea-time, McDonald's at 7am... Buenos Aires. Sigh. Nos vemos.

Thursday, September 2, 2010

¡Chau Chow!

August 1-15Uruguayan parrilla, a giant pile of grilled meat. And yes, I did partake in eating that!

In 2 whirlwind weeks after coming back from Fray Jorge, we've said goodbye (or chau here, never adios) to half our group, obviously involving a lot of special occasion meals. First it was Loren and his parrilla dinner (giant pile of bbq, mas o menos). Morgan made the night more eventful by squeezing the closed mustard bottle so hard it exploded all over her and everyone on that side of the table. We made a slide-show for Loren's going away and shared embarrassing stories with the lab which was a good time for everyone.Morgan with mustard EVERYWHERE

Diana, Daniella, Michael, Morgan, Tina, Monica, Rachel, Loren, Raúl

Just a couple of days later Michael took off back to Berkeley. He finished off his time here with dinner at Tiramisu, our collective favorite restaurant in the city. And of course, with 2 desserts, as per usual.Supercopas! Best discovery ever!

We celebrated Monica's birthday in style, going to the restaurant De Congrejo a Conejo (From Crab to Rabbit) with a nice group from the lab.Squid ink crab ravioli. Yum!

Raúl, Diana, Rachel, Morgan, Monica, Tina, Meredith, Daniella, Fernando

Finally Morgan left us to start her Masters in North Carolina :( After a week of helping Monica trap coruros, we took the last day off and all went to Pablo Neruda's house here in Santiago. It was lovely, though not nearly as great as his place in Valparaíso. And of course, we went to Tiramisu again.Morgan's favorite bacon & egg pizza

Tina is sad because she could only finish half her pizza. Mega fail!

Hard to believe the first half of our time here has come to an end! Tina, Monica, and I are all taking trips out of the country because of our visas, and when we come back it will be degu baby time!Of course, Morgan had to say goodbye to Juliano :(